Jan 26th: skied into climb Nemesis on the Stanley Headwall.

Although the temps hovered around -12C all day the ice was very cold, tight, and brittle. The route had multiple ski and foot tracks to the base but there was very little evidence of previous ascents, making for challenging conditions.
We climbed the left of the centre side to the ledge and then did a rising traverse to finish on the right side for the upper tier.
Plenty fresh and untouched ice on the climb but the upper daggers on the left side did not appear to impose too much threat of collapse in current size and form.
Some pretty rusty bolted anchors, with new cord, were avoided on the right side of the climb. It would be recommended to avoid using these stations unless the hardware one day is replaced. There are plenty of options for good ice anchors and V threads for ascent and descent.

The snow conditions skiing back down to the hiking trail provided the biggest hazard of the day. Highly variable snowpack... very thin and facetted in places with a 5cm breakable wind crust in the others. Hard to find a powder turn, especially while shouldering a heavy climbing pack. With the current conditions, and heavy traffic on the trail it would be easy to walk in and out to this climb without need for snowshoes.