Climbing Conditions

Climbing Conditions

Just flew out of the Tantalus after two days, thought I would post some conditions and photos.

Day 1 we did the SW face of Dione and down the SE face and the ridge to Klemen's rap stations. Easy straight line across the Dione Glacier with no crevasses. Decent size shrund opening up in the couloir on Dione, but still easy to get across for now. Clear night before we came in made for perfect crampon conditions and fast travel. All rock routes and anchors were snow free.

Day 2 we went down from the Hut to climb the NW Ridge of Alpha. If you haven't done it, it's an amazing, long 4th/5th class ridge (to 5.4?) with a ridiculous amount of gendarmes to manage. Easy decent down the SW of Alpha and super casual down the Alpha-Serratus Glacier back down to the flats at 1500m. We had one chunk of seasonal snow threatening the route that made me super nervous, and spent about 45 seconds crossing under it, but it almost made me turn around as you never know when those things will go. Low and behold, with zero warning signs, it came down 10 minutes after we passed under it.

The Haberl hut is a busy place, FYI, and is taking the abuse of overuse. Please, for the benefit of all, if you aren't going to go in, call and cancel, if you have empty spots, call and let the person in charge know, don't book spots you aren't using to just have a private place. It's a short season up there, let's get as many people a chance to enjoy it as possible. Try hard to leave it better than you found it and respect all the user groups. End of rant.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.