Parks Canada Visitor Safety climbed the NW Ridge of Sir Donald on Thursday July 26 and found excellent climbing conditions.
The Lower Bivy is dry and has two adjacent water sources. The Upper Bivy is dry and still has snow close by to melt for water.
The approach to the Uto / Sir Donald col has a 10m wide strip of snow that must be crossed. At 4:30am PST the air temp was 6 degree celsius and we found soft snow that easily took boot steps, however with cooler overnight temps an ice axe and crampons are recommended. The ridge is dry, several cornices remain on the North side of the ridge but do not affect the climbing. The West Face Bypass trail is free of snow, however several small patches higher on the slope are producing wet sections of downsloping gravel over rock while the snow is melting (which could be icy when cold).
All of the rappel stations are in place, a brochure describing the descent can be downloaded from the link below.

A Climbers Descent Guide to Mount Sir Donald

https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/pn-np/bc/glacier/visit/~/media/17B979E878254E438...

Some climbers have reported difficulty finding the last two rappel stations, here is some information that might make it easier:
After you have completed rappels 5-10 you will find yourself in 4th class scrambling terrain. Follow broken scree ledges down and generally trending skiers left. Avoid the temptation to use old sling anchors, as these are not necessary and will only add extra time to your, already, long day. Once you have scrambled down to the last rock cliff you will have a steep snow gully on skiers left and some more broken scree ledges to skiers right, where a rock cairn sits. Scramble just past the rock cairn and you will find the last two bolted rappel stations.

Enjoy the climbing,

Mark Herbison
Glacier National Park Visitor Safety