Error message

Climbing Conditions

1 photos

Bugaboos, West Ridge Pigeon Spire

Bugaboos, Pigeon Spire

Climbing Conditions

I guided an ascent of the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire on Monday, July 25th. The Bugaboo/Snowpatch Col is still in good shape with no bergshrund open and step kicking possible all the way with the exception of 10 metres of gravel at the very top (take care as there is almost always other parties below). An established track leads across the Vowell Glacier to the start of the ridge and the glacier is carrying well. The route is in good shape with twenty or so steps in snow and ice (we left crampons at the start of the ridge) at the summit block (Note that in the attached picture the gentleman in the blue is taking a harder variation to the summit. The route normal corkscrews around climbers left to gain a fourth class broken ramp that leads to the top).

A glide crack slab avalanche failed on the granite slabs footing Bugaboo Spire sometime during our climb, probably with the sun and thunder showers in the afternoon. The slab ran towards the bottom of the Bugaboo/Snowpatch Col but did not get close to the approach trail. Note there is more potential for this type of avalanche there as there is more glide slabs sitting on the slippery slab.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

On The Map

Sorry, no reports available for your selection. Please choose another type or clear your selection.

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.