Here is some additional info on conditions in the Bugaboos from this past week (July 17-21) while I was up there guiding...

On Monday we climbed Surf's Up on the West face of Snowpatch, which dried quickly after Sunday's light rain. Of note there are still two large patches of snow melting out between the Kraus-McCarthy Raps and the South Summit which are keeping the upper pitches of the Snowpatch Route wet. On Wednesday there were more than a dozen climbers on the NE Ridge of Bugaboo. There is still about a 100m stretch of snow covering the terrain which leads up to the terrace where the 5th class climbing starts and some lingering patches in the upper chimney pitches which doesn't effect the climbing. The first pitch was very wet and cold and a trace of new snow on one of the upper pitches made for some tenuous climbing.

The attached photo of the Bugaboo/Snowpatch col was taken on Thursday morning.