Climbing Conditions

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Climbing Conditions

Bugaboos Conditions Update

The Bugaboos are currently in excellent condition. Snow cover is making travel between the Kain Hut, Applebee Camp, and throughout the alpine very fast and efficient. Applebee Camp is dry enough to accommodate numerous tents.

The Bugaboo–Snowpatch (BS) Col has a well-established bootpack that avoids most of this season's rockfall hazard, which is primarily originating from the Snowpatch side. However, the track does place climbers directly beneath the lower section of the Kain Route. Parties climbing the Kain Route should take extra care to avoid dislodging rocks, particularly on the lower third of the route.

I removed as many loose rocks as possible from the top of the BS Col during our descent, but this area remains a significant objective hazard, especially for descending parties. Extra caution is strongly advised.

The Pigeon Icefall rappel route is an excellent alternative at this time. The moat at the base is straightforward to cross, and travel on the Bugaboo Glacier is in excellent condition.

Recent route conditions:

Northeast Ridge of Bugaboo Spire: Climbed recently and reported to be dry.
West-side routes on Snowpatch Spire: Have been climbed and are in condition.

Trail Closure

Please note that there will be a trail closure on Wednesday, July 15, from 10:00 a.m. to 12:15 p.m. due to maintenance work. Avoid planning travel between the trailhead and the huts during this time.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.