We just returned from a few days of guiding in the Bugaboos August 12-16. We had an excellent trip but the hot summer has taken a toll.

We climbed routes in the Crescent Spires, the SE Ridge of Eastpost and the West Ridge of Pigeon.

Old news at this point, but the Bugaboo Snowpatch Col is a mess and it didn't appear to us that anyone was going near it.

The Pigeon Fork of the Bugaboo Glacier was passable but the crevasses are opening up more and more. The crossing near the top may not be long for this world. We were happy to have 5 people on the rope when we went through there on Friday the 13th.

The boulder fields in many places are becoming quite unstable as the ice underneath melts. We avoided the toe of the Bugaboo Glacier and opted to use the route that ascends through the slabs beneath Son of a Snowpatch. There were recently some fixed lines added that make this route easier. We also gave the boulder field beneath Lions Way a wide berth when approaching routes in that area. We witnessed a few spontaneous boulder falls and one human triggered one that ran someone over but luckily didn't result in an injury.

It started to rain on Monday evening as we were walking out. I suspect that there is fresh snow up high.

See attached pictures.

Geoff Osler/Ian Jackson (MGs)