ACMG AAGE candidates were climbing in the Bugaboos from August 26 to 29.
We experienced generally good weather although at times it rapidly deteriorated. There was was a strong overnight freeze on the 26 and 27th however warm overnight conditions on the morning of the 28th lead to rapid melting. The Bugaboo Glacier conditions were rapidly changing and the descent from the Pigeon/Snowpatch rappels are becoming more complex. While traveling below son of snowpatch on the Bugaboo Glacier we noted high rockfall hazard which can be avoided by traveling in more complex glacier terrain to the skiers right. The B/S col is melting out rapidly and on nights with no overnight freeze high rockfall hazard exist even in the mornings. We chose to travel through the B/S col on approaches but avoided it after any daytime warming occured. While climbing ears between a large scale rockfall event was noted on the talus slope below the Cresent Spires. This moraine is supported by glacial ice which is rapidly melting out. We consider this zone to be highly unstable.
Please see attached photo from August 28th.