Climbing Conditions

1 photos

Climbing Conditions

The TRU Canadian Mountain and Ski Guide Apprentice Alpine Guide Exam just came out from four days in the Bugaboos. Conditions remain excellent on all of the rock climbs while all of the main access routes are holding in there too.
As was mentioned in an MCR last week, the right hand exit to the Bugaboo - Snowpatch col is still in better condition than the left hand exit (see photo). Regardless of which way you choose to go, human generated and natural rockfall are still top of mind.
The lower Bugaboo glacier is still hanging in there with some big snow-plug / bridges to cross. We had a close call with a very large block melting out of the ice and sliding into a nearby crevasse.

We also travelled through the upper Bugaboo glacier where the crux is getting past the bergschrund/crevasse at its top. There are a couple of options but a little looking around is required.

Have fun.

Marc Piché
ACMG Mountain Guide

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.