Climbing Conditions

4 photos

Climbing Conditions

I instructed an ACC intro to mountaineering course July 11-14 in the Bugaboos.

We stayed at the Kain Hut. The hut and Applebee campground were both quite busy.

There is still snow below the hut elevation. We had great travel conditions on The Hound’s Tooth, BS Col, Pigeon Fork of the Bugaboo Glacier, and Eastpost Spire.

The BS Col was in excellent condition with deep secure steps (we wore crampons), good snow right to the col and no bergschrund issues. We didn’t wear crampons on the rest of our snow/glacier travel. The snow was soft, offering fast and easy travel, and snow coverage on the glaciers was excellent.

We turned around just below the Hound’s Tooth - Marmolata Col because of warm temps and deep isothermal snow. Bringing avalanche safety gear (transceiver, shovel, probe) is probably a good idea until it turns to a true solid summer snowpack. See the photo of the recent natural cornice triggered deep slab avalanche on the Pigeon Feathers.

On Eastpost Spire there is a firm snowpatch just before the final summit pitch, that could be a slip / fall hazard. There are currently big bucket steps but it could start to deteriorate with the warm weather, being a hazard until it fully melts. The rest of the NW ridge route was snow free.

See photos.

Jordy Shepherd
ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guide

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.