Climbing Conditions

BS Col still decent coverage

Bugs - Surf's Up

Climbing Conditions

A quick trip into the Bugs again yesterday. Overnight temps were just above freezing, clear and calm both at the trailhead and on the glacier, with only light winds throughout the day. We didn't get to travel much on the glacier to test out the bridges but looking around, except at the very lowest points and solar aspects, there's still good snow coverage down to about 2650m.

The BS Col is still holding snow to within 15m of the top and looks more like typical late July than late August. (Sorry no photo!) There is a decent, fast track through the upper slope but the lower section is a mess of rockfall and meltout debris and a couple of minor slots. With the hard, radiative freeze overnight we were glad to have crampons. Of note for descent: a single rope rappel currently will not clear the bergschrund but finishes right on an undercut bit of snow bridge. Yikes!

Apart from the chilly start to the day, all routes looked to be in great shape and everything from Pigeon West to Power of Lard was seeing traffic.

Nice to have such great late season conditions in the Bugs for a change!

Carl Johnston
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.