We climbed Bourgeau Right today, ice conditions were amazing. Mostly freshly reformed, dense, almost plastic ice, great screws, secure placements. Most of the horrible eggshell encountered on all the other climbs this early season is gone. A few shallow spots on topouts and between pitches. All the bolted anchors are dug out and dry. Last pitch was quite sun affected, but still manageable around 1h30pm. Conditions changed fast during the raps, lots of water running on the rock walls. The ice was warming rapidly.
A few stubbies are helpful.
HS 25-30 cm below and on the climb, with slab features in the gully and on some ledges. Avy debris has run almost full path, concentrated in the approach gully, and making for great travel. More snow above the climb, wind affected with a visible 20-30cm crown, and lots of game tracks. The day was fairly warm, windless, sunny. A few very isolated snowballs was all we saw in terms of snow activity.