Climbing Conditions

Banff NP, Canmore, Kananakis Country

ACMG Alpine Guides Exam, Module 2

Climbing Conditions

ACMG Training and Assessment Program (TAP), Module 2 was based out of the Bow Valley from August 21 to 25th. This following the 1st module which took place in early July in the Icefields.
The primary objective was to assess candidates on rock, ridge and mixed alpine routes.
Objectives for the week included routes on EEOR (Reprobate, Geriatric, North Ridge), Eisenhower Tower, ESE Ridge of Lady MacDonald, Mt Kidd (the Fold), and Mt. Buller.
All routes were found to be in good condition. No late season snow patches but creeks and streams are flowing in all the normal places. Most routes have a notable amount of loose rubble on ledges and shallow slabs, a likely result of an unusual amount of rain over the season. This hazard required careful footwork and conscientious rope management to keep your own, and other parties sheltered from unintended rockfall. Lots of people out enjoying the mountains!
The weather proved to be a consistent logistical challenge for groups over the week. Weather forecasts and models rarely agreed on precipitation amounts, timing, or location. It took a couple of days to settle into a general, comfortable skepticism of models and forecasts. Candidates planned critical decision points on routes before committing to ‘goin’ for the top. We gave ourselves every advantage against the weather by starting early/finishing early in order to avoid the afternoon convection and possible electrical activity. Being flexible and having a well considered plan ‘b’ meant no group got caught out in the rain.
It was a very successful week for all candidates.

Deryl Kelly, MG
On behalf of Mountain Guides Keith Reid (Course Leader), Mike Adolph, Greg Golovach, Lydia Marmot, Tim Ricci, Jonas Hoke, Monte Johnston and Alpine Guide Larry Shiu.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.