Parks Canada Visitor Safety recently did a traverse of the Asulkan group, starting at Mt Abbott and continuing over Afton, Rampart, Dome, Jupiter, Youngs, and Lookout. We finished by crossing the Illecillewaet Neve over to the Perley Rock trail.
Climbing conditions on the rock sections were excellent on dry rock throughout. Good step-kicking in snow was found leading up to the crux on the Dome, along with the NW face of Youngs Peak. Travel across the Illecillewaet was straightforward, mainly on blue ice, but sags were obvious and easily avoided on snow-covered sections at upper elevations. Crampons and an ice axe were used multiple times on the trip.
Of note, the final ~200m descent into Asulkan Pass from the west is very firm scree/gravel/heather/choss. One used to be able to gain the snow slope on the north side higher up, but now you need to navigate loose, steep ground before hitting the snow. The steepness of this final bit requires your full attention, so save some energy to focus on safely getting to the pass.
Water sources from snow/glacier melt were readily available in many places. There was no need to carry excessive amounts of water between bivy sites.
Attached photos are: 1. Exiting the crux of the Dome chimney; 2. The remaining snow strip heading up the NW face of Youngs; 3. The descent down from Mt Jupiter to Asulkan Pass.
Enjoy the dog days of August.
Chris Gooliaff
Glacier National Park Visitor Safety
IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide
