Climbing Conditions

6 photos

Climbing Conditions

We climbed Andromeda by the E ridge as part of a practicum and training day.
AA col looks horrific on the Athabasca side, pictures tell everything.
Conditions were much better on Andromeda side, with solid snow plugs still bridging the schrund in 2 different spots. Middle schrund line needs a bodylength of steep ice to be climbed with good screws at the waist. Ice ramp is straightforward on screw anchors, very little rockfall observed going up or down. Right side seems more sheltered by the steep wall above it, while left side is melting out with lots of stacked rocks on the edge.
Transitioning from the col onto the rock was challenging, very loose rock and steep terrain there, hard to protect or get good stances. Rest of the rock rib up to ridge is dry and very loose.
Once on the ridge it's walking on flat ice or scree to summit, no crampons needed once the ridge broadens. There is water on the ridge in a tiny glacial pond.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.