Hi all,

I was guiding in the Bugaboos based out of Applebee campsite from July 24-29, 2020. We had a freak summer storm on July 24th that left a few centimeters of snow above 2500m. The weather improved rapidly in subsequent days and most routes on solar aspects dried out. During our stay, we climbed Surf'up on Snowpatch Spire, the Kain Route and the Northeast Ridge on Bugaboo Spire as well as the regular route on Eastpost spire. All were in great conditions. We did not venture over to Pigeon Spire however, many parties climbed the West ridge and reported good conditions. Similarly, parties reported good conditions on the Southeast Ridge and Sunshine crack on Snowpatch Spire as well as the Becky-Chouinard on the South Howser Spire.

The snow coverage on surrounding glaciers was impressive for late July and snow travel excellent. There was no signs of ice showing on any of the traditional approaches including the Pigeon fork of the upper Bugaboo glacier. Even without an overnight freeze, snow travel was firm in the morning and ankle deep in the afternoon. The Bugaboo-Snowpatch col was being used extensively and was still in top conditions. The upper bergshrund was slowly but surely opening up however, the slope below along with the Crescent Glacier appeared smooth with good snow coverage.

Applebee campsite was bustling with Canadian climbers. That combined with the Kain hut being closed made for a unique Bugaboo experience.

Enjoy this amazing summer weather! Finally!

David Lussier
mountain guide
summitmountainguides.com