Climbing Conditions

1 photos

Active rockfall area

Gimli Col, North Side

Climbing Conditions

Hi all,

I just finished another 3 days of alpine rock guiding in Mulvey Basin of southern Valhalla Park (July 14-16, 2021). Conditions are as generally previously reported except for this evolving hazard.

There is a growing rockfall issue affecting access to the North Ridge of Gimli Peak (AD+ 5.6). This hazard is driven by a newly exposed section of black ice located in the upper area of the pocket glacier on the North side of Gimli Peak, see attached photo. The rock embedded black ice section is shedding large rocks randomly and periodical. An overnight freeze might help give confidence with crossing this area however, that is not very common here in July.

The attached photo shows the black ice section encircled in red. The regular access to the North ridge is also drawn in red. The green line denote the regular descent route into Mulvey Basin from the Gimli Col which remains in good condition and unaffected. A circuitous approach to the North ridge from Mulvey basin would reduce the exposure given the current conditions.

Climate change continues to affect mountain travel. Staying tuned and observant can help us make required adjustments.

Play safe!

David Lussier
ACMG Mountain Guide

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.