Overall, it has been a great week of mountain conditions, with an even better one coming up if the weather people are right!
It feels like maybe the weather is settling down a bit in terms of super unpredictable storms and over night freezes are a possibility again.

With the late summer conditions, we are getting the usual hazards. Ice is showing through on glaciers more and more leaving a nice sliding surface for any overhead rock fall. This is also a reminder, that crampons are not so much an accessory anymore, but a requisite in many areas, including the Bugaboos. Glacier travel is also getting a bit trickier with bigger holes opening up and more mindful travel is required.

Travel in the Bugaboos has been very good this past week. The col however is getting icy, and has become a dangerous spot again in the afternoon and during busy times with rock fall and the potential of slipping. There is always the Snowpatch rappels and the Bugaboo Glacier as other possible descents. All rock routes sound dry and prime right now.

I believe Rogers pass still has bear restrictions, with all routes being dry and clear and good to go.

In the Lake Louise group, the bigger classics are in good shape, and bigger alpine rock objectives are coming into condition. With the crowds however, huts and hut approaches are seeing more traffic then ever and changing the conditions in unusual ways. Take your time and stay on route to maintain the best travel for you and for future users. Bear advisory of 4 people s still in effect in the Lake Moraine/ Larch Valley area, but this could change soon. Check the Parks website for changes.

Travel in the Columbia Icefields is still good, with good coverage overall for this time of year.

In general, not a ton to add to last weeks post. Good mountain conditions for mid August, with lots of potential for great days in the mountains. Weather is also looking optimistic. Start early, avoid the crowds?, be aware of increased rockfall potential and a tighter snowpack if temps drop overnight, causing more icy surfaces.
Have a great week!

Sarah Hueniken
ACMG Alpine Guide
www.sarahhueniken.com