We climbed the NW face of Mt Delphine on June 24 and Mt Peter W ridge on June 25, from a camp at 2450 m in the Peter-Delphine-McCoubrey basin.
The Horsethief and Farnham roads are passable in a stock SUV.
The trail is in good shape to treeline with some recent clearing work having been done. Beyond that only remnants of trail are visible but travel is easy in open terrain. Avalanches brought down some major timber last winter but it's easy to get through.
Conditions on Delphine were perfect with a good freeze resulting in fast travel to the summit. The glacier has steepened to perhaps 2 pitches of 70 degrees but we easily bypassed this to the left on 35 degree hard snow. I doubt there is permanent ice where we climbed though so this option is perhaps not feasible once the snow melts out. We descended the south ridge/west rib route and found the ridge to be quite loose with a few steep and very rubbly 4th class steps to negotiate. Then we down climbed quite steep snow to bypass the lower step on the west rib. In hindsight I wish we had just gone back down the NW face.
Mt Peter was mostly dry and a warm night meant we could kick steps through the few snow patches encountered. There are a few OK bits of climbing up to 5.4 in the quartzite bands with the requisite rubble elsewhere. A summit GPS reading of 3357 m with an accuracy of +/- 6 m fuels the 11er debate but the TRIM map puts it at 3360 m so we will call it one. A Kain first ascent and an 11er ticks boxes on two lists.
Looking around elsewhere, Mt McCoubrey N face looks to be in perfect condition if there were a freeze and there is excellent coverage on the Commander Glacier and its peaks.
