Madeleine Martin-Preney and I spent the last 3 days climbing in the Tantalus Range, traversing from Lake Lovely Water to the North side of Mt Tantalus.

We started by climbing the East Ridge of Alpha Mountain and then walking up the Serratus Glacier to the Haberl Hut, which was all in excellent condition with dry rock and easy snow/glacier travel.

Yesterday we did some scrambling and sport cragging on Mt Dione and Serratus, then finished up today traversing over Mt Tantalus. We had a good freeze last night and used the South Couloir of Mt Dione for access this morning, as the bergschrund was still well bridged on the left. Once we got over the moat onto the rock on Tantalus, it was dry all the way to the summit (2 steps on snow shortly before the summit). The north side of Mt Tantalus still has lots of snow travel, occasionally up to mid shin deep, but lower elevations it was mostly perfect step kicking.

All in all, perfect conditions out there right now!!

Photos attached:
1 - Summit of Mt Tantalus
2 - East Ridge of Alpha
3 - Alpha-Serratus col
4 - Lower Serratus Glacier
5 - Summit of Mt Dione from Rumbling Glacier