I guided an ascent of the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire on Monday, July 25th. The Bugaboo/Snowpatch Col is still in good shape with no bergshrund open and step kicking possible all the way with the exception of 10 metres of gravel at the very top (take care as there is almost always other parties below). An established track leads across the Vowell Glacier to the start of the ridge and the glacier is carrying well. The route is in good shape with twenty or so steps in snow and ice (we left crampons at the start of the ridge) at the summit block (Note that in the attached picture the gentleman in the blue is taking a harder variation to the summit. The route normal corkscrews around climbers left to gain a fourth class broken ramp that leads to the top).

A glide crack slab avalanche failed on the granite slabs footing Bugaboo Spire sometime during our climb, probably with the sun and thunder showers in the afternoon. The slab ran towards the bottom of the Bugaboo/Snowpatch Col but did not get close to the approach trail. Note there is more potential for this type of avalanche there as there is more glide slabs sitting on the slippery slab.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures