Came back last night from a 3 day trip in the Bugaboos (June 24th - 26th) during which we travelled on the Crescent, Bugaboo and Vowell glaciers.

Snow/Glaciers:
Snow depth on the glaciers varies but in many places still exceeds 2 meters. Rain during June 24th and 25th made an overnight freeze impossible and we experienced isothermal conditions. We had a good overnight freeze overnight on Saturday but that didn't last very long into the day. Steep slopes that receive sun (like the Bugaboo Snowpatch Col and Upper Bugaboo Glacier) were out for us early in the day. Generally crevasses are well bridged however sections of the bergshrund on the B-S Col are thinly bridged in sections.

Rock Fall:
We saw evidence of a few notable rock fall events.
1. The East Face of Pigeon showed evidence of a recent (large) rockfall near the start of the Cooper-Kor climbing route.
2. The Bugaboo Snowpatch Col has seen some rockfall (kitchen table sized) originating from the climber's right hand side.
3. The toe of the Bugaboo Glacier saw a coffee table sized block run across the up track used by a number of parties. Given that this area has been the site of some serious rockfall incidents climbers may want to consider limiting their exposure in this area by crossing the creek and starting up closer to the centre of the glacier.

During this spell of good weather I wouldn't be surprised to see more large rock fall as the snow melts.

Rock Climbing:
While my guests and I were focused on glacier travel skills and not rock climbing other parties reported good conditions on the Crescent Tower climbs, the Kain Route was getting climbed in snowy conditions, the West Ridge of Pigeon was holding some snow but coming into shape quickly. More northerly aspects will still take some time to come into shape.

Photos of the spires attached.

Scott McKay
AAG, CGI 3