ACMG MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS SUMMARY FOR THE ROCKIES AND COLUMBIAS JUNE 23rd, 2016

The Rockies have seen some good alpine conditions when the overnight freeze permits. In the Columbia Icefields multiple routes on Athabasca and Andromeda found good travel while its cool with snowline being encountered at around 2550m. Sags on glaciers are quite apparent and most bergschrunds are still quite passable with minimal difficulties. The main concerns listed by ascents were exposure to cornice hazards and an increase in avalanche danger as the day heats up. Alpine avalanches to size 1.5 with the odd larger event are a daily occurrence when the sun is out, especially in gully features. The same has been said for ascents of the higher peaks in the Lake Louise group and the higher peaks in Jasper (Edith Cavell is still wrapped in winter). Most front range climbs are bone dry and in regular summer shape except the odd gully feature with a snowpatch feeding it.

The Bugaboos are still very snowy with cornices over the East Face of Snowpatch Spire and snow on ledges of both Snowpatch and Bugaboo Spires. There are lots of wet streaks in the steep crack systems and it will take a nice dry spell to get rid of that affliction. The Bugaboo/Snowpatch col looks to be well filled in and the Kain route of Bugaboo Spire has reportedly been climbed. No observations from the Howsers or Pidgeon, but one could assume the worst.

The Peaks around Rogers Pass are still very wet and snowy. Mount Sir Donald has a lot of snow clinging to the shady aspects of the ridge and the West Face bypass is looking like a no go. Lots of wet streaks on Tupper and the surrounding peaks will take a dry spell to get rid of. The approaches to Mt. MacDonald North face are melting out fast and glorious B.C. bushwhacking to those routes should be expected. Overall there is about 1 meter of snow above 2000m in the region.

Friday and Saturday don't look to be stellar with cool conditions and rain or snow at higher elevations, with less precipitation East of the divide. Beyond the weekend conditions should improve with generally sunny conditions.

Good luck!

Steve Holeczi
ACMG Mountain Guide