The weekend may not be as "doom and gloom" as some of the forecasts had been predicting but it certainly doesn't look like it will be a perfect weekend for Alpine climbing in the Rockies and Columbia Mountains.
4c and 8mm new rain at 2170m west of Rogers Pass summit this morning. Sounds somewhat similar but perhaps a little cooler along the Rockies divide with snow observed at O'Haracabove 2300m.
The big questions for the future are around how much snow will fall this weekend and how will it stick around? It usually takes a bit of pretty darn good weather to melt the early September snow, so time will tell. Keep an eye on snow lines when you can see up high and hopefully we will have some observations early next week so we can see how things are looking after the next precipitation.
Previous to this last precipitation, conditions were pretty good for alpine rock with some dust sticking to higher terrain and some good dry snow on the glaciers. Some hard and or dirty ice just under this snow but glacier travel was still pretty good when things are cool. Ice faces generally need a full"reset" Time will tell if that happens. Expect some rockfall if the sun comes out in a big way after this storm ends.
Be aware that the Moraine Lake area now has a required group minimum size of 4 and that remains in large parts of Glacier park.
Have a fine weekend and the east slopes will probably be your best bet for fine weather friends.
ACMG Mountain Guide