ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains June 25th, 2020

It feels like summer has arrived on schedule. Snow is melting quickly in the big mountains. Thankfully there is already a lot of "water under the bridge" everywhere as there is still a sizeable alpine snowpack along the Rockies and Columbias divides.

Not a lot of reports from the alpine yet as camping and hut options are still limited in many places. It is safe to say though that cornices, loose wet avalanches and rockfall are still the primary alpine hazards. As per usual, but especially in this season of short nights, overnight freezes are really important and sometimes hard to come by. Glacier travel and Alpine climbing conditions could be spectacular though IF you get a good freeze and get up and down before the snow stops being your friend.

Some treeline elevation rock climbs that get sun are in good shape. I have found a few loose holds on rock routes though that certainly weren't there last summer. A winters worth of melt freeze always does some scattered damage to the rock and some tapping on and tiptoeing around suspicious looking holds is always a good idea, especially at this time of year.

Be aware that access is quite as it used to be. Check to see if campgrounds, gas stations, hostels etc are open. I haven't been able to verify it but apparently the Bugaboos road may be closed Monday to Saturday 7am to 5:30 pm for another week or so?

It will likely be the least crowded alpine summer of the current century. Get out there and get socially distance!

Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide