ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains June 17, 2022
As a general statement, all alpine areas are a few weeks to a month behind schedule in regards to snow melt. Avalanches and cornices are still pertinent hazards which would usually be less of an issue this time of year.
In the Columbia Icefields, there have been reports of snow down to treeline, and above 2500m there is 70-250+cm. As you could expect, travel conditions will vary wildly with the amount of overnight freeze. Some ACMG guide's courses had amazing conditions last week on the glaciers with a good freeze. One guided party reported good travel up Mt. Aberdeen in Lake Louise last week, but by mid-day, they were wallowing waist-deep in isothermal snow. Sounds like fun.
In the front ranges of the Rockies, lower-lying cliffs are pretty dry (or are drying out from last week's monsoon rain). Peaks such as Mt. Louis and Castle Mountain are still out of shape with snow and will need a hot, dry spell to change that which hasn't happened yet.
In Rogers Pass, there is almost double the amount of snow there usually is this time of year. Trade routes for alpine climbing are weeks away from being in regular condition. Most of the access trails are still in deep snow from the valley floor or close to it. Lower lying crags further West near Revelstoke are in regular shape. No reports yet from the Bugaboos, or how the access road is. I can only assume it's pretty wintery back there!
Rivers and creeks are at higher water, and bears are hanging out at lower elevations because of the low snowline. This weekend looks unsettled again (surprise, surprise), with rain expected in most areas Saturday, and mainly cloudy with less precipitation on Sunday. Unfortunately, it doesn't appear that alpine conditions will be very good this weekend.
Steve Holeczi
ACMG Mountain Guide