It seems that the extended spring Monsoon is at least temporarily easing up. Hopefully the next couple of forecasted clear nights will give us some good overnight freezes and the sunny days will dry off the alpine rock and ridges in places.
Generally good conditions on the glaciers for this time of year if the snow cover is frozen. Big snow and ice faces are also, as usual, very dependent on the current state of the freeze but at least most of them aren't pure ice yet and bergschrunds, in most places should generally be "manageable". Still reports of lots of snow hanging around on Alpine ridges so expect travel to be slow and tricky in that airy arena.
Primary alpine concerns are still cornices, especially above 3000m, and rockfall as the melt continues. Large avalanches are still a possibility with high daytime temps and loose snow avalanches are still probable with that same trigger.
Below 2800m along the Rockies and Columbia Mountains divides and most places on the dry side of the ranges travel is mostly snow free and good conditions exist for scrambling and rock climbing.
Looks like some thunderstorms in the forecast for later this weekend. Hopefully that comes with rain and we continue to enjoy smoke free skies for awhile yet.
ACMG Mountain Guide