The slow transition from spring to summer continues and might get a bit of a boost from the forecast rain over the next few days.
The warm weather we had this week led to reports of a few deep avalanches running to ground in the Rockies. The rain forecast for Friday and Saturday will further saturate the snowpack possibly leading to more deep avalanches. My guess is that we will likely be thinking about the deep facet layer in the snowpack producing big avalanches for a few weeks yet on large alpine slopes. Even though Sunday looks a little better weather wise, if the forecast holds true, there will be little overnight freeze.
Recent groups on the Columbia Icefields have reported generally good travel but with noticeable sagging of crevasse bridges and new crevasses opening daily.
People have been climbing on the rocky peaks of the front ranges and reporting mostly dry rock with a few snow patches remaining in gullies. At this time of year it will be a good idea to watch for rockfall and to give your hold an extra test before committing to them.
Alpine rock climbing venues in the Columbias (Bugaboos, Valhallas) are still very snowy and although some of the south facing routes may be climbable, but the approaches could be a little challenging. That said, the South Rib of Mount Tupper was recently climbed in mostly dry conditions with a relatively painless approach.
The mountain creeks and rivers will likely be swelling with the forecast rain and I'll be doing my best to be on the right side of them if it happens.
ACMG Mountain Guide