We are officially in early summer conditions, and the weather looks promising through the weekend into next week with sunny skies and the odd afternoon storm.
The Bugaboos are drying out, although there is over a meter of snow at the Applebee campground, and the snowline starts at the Kain hut. Reports are of fast morning travel with an overnight freeze and many of the South and East aspects are mainly dry. The higher peaks (Pidgeon and Howsers) are still very snowy with cornices and will need some time.
In Rogers Pass, the higher peaks (Sir Donald) are still very snowy and out of shape, but peaks such as Mount MacDonald and Tupper have been reported as mainly dry on their standard routes. Snowline is 1900m on N aspects, and 2000m on S aspects.
In the Rockies most front range alpine/cragging rock climbs are good to go with the odd snow patch and running water. The higher peaks in the main range are still very snowy, with cornice and avalanche concerns as the day heats up. The extended snow cover has meant great travel on glaciers and in gullies when frozen. Besides the usual isothermal slides in the afternoon, I wouldn't be surprised to see the odd deep slab avalanche release as warmth begins to trickle to alpine areas which still have a basal weakness. Avalanche safety gear should be a serious consideration if travelling in avalanche terrain.
To sum it up, on the snowy peaks its great conditions with a freeze, and supremely heinous without. On the big peaks it will be a few weeks before a lot of the overhead cornice/avalanche concerns have melted away so start early, be prepared to change plans, or go rock climbing.
Enjoy the sunny weather!
ACMG Mountain Guide