Current conditions are excellent for alpine climbing, with dry rock on all routes and enough snow left on the glaciers to make for good travel and bridged bergschrunds. Rogers Pass, the Bugaboos, the Lake Louise group, the Columbia Icefields and Mt. Robson are all in prime summer condition right now.
Right now the snow line on the glaciers is at about 2600m, rising a bit more each day. Expect to wear crampons more and more over the coming weeks as the snow keeps melting, and keep an ice screw handy. Looking across the Wapta, it feels like it will become an icy month up there as the snow keeps melting, but right now there is still good snow to walk on above 2600m.
Over the last few days, daytime high temperatures at 3000m on the Wapta reached +8, but with a good overnight freeze people have been reporting great travel conditions. The weather forecast continues to be fine for the next five day period. Looks like afternoon thundershowers in the eastern slope areas, but central BC will have sunny skies through to Wednesday with valley bottom highs approaching 30 degrees.
The forest fires continue to burn, and fire bans exist all through the mountains. With the Extreme fire hazard rating, the forest is tinder dry and any new start is a potential disaster. Many backcountry areas in Banff and Kootenay National Parks are closed due to the Verdant Creek fire, mostly around the Sunshine Village/Egypt Lake/Rockwall area. For more information on the closures go here: http://ow.ly/Njbl30ebOS4.
What a summer. Environment Canada says the City of Calgary is on-track for the hottest summer ever recorded. Phew . . . some rain would be good.
Enjoy the awesome conditions.
ACMG Mountain Guide