Its been one of the best summers for weather and general mountain conditions in a while. The big story is how good the snow travel is on glaciated terrain, and some areas still have lingering avalanche debris from the winter in features which extend quite far down in the alpine. These can be a nice break from the knee bashing scree if you can use them. Although the coverage is good for this time of year, crampons are becoming more and more a necessity as things dry up.
The other story is the forest fires in B.C., which continue to affect access to areas around Sunshine, Mt. Assiniboine Park, and Highway 93S in Kootenay National Park. Its extreme fire hazard with some dreaming of rain. To check on the status of these closures/restrictions, click this link: http://ow.ly/Njbl30ebOS4 . There are also some wildlife closures and restrictions in place which you can check your local park website for more info on. those.
As with most years around this time, rockfall is the biggest concern as ice faces continue to lose snow on their edges, exposing the rubble below. This is especially tricky on popular routes where multiple climbing parties are climbing above each other. Timing is everything, and what's safe in the morning with a good freeze can be a garbage chute as it warms up.
The weather looks decent for Friday and Saturday, with the potential for afternoon thunder storms and rain. On Sunday and through the start of next week all regions will see a cooling trend, rain and maybe some of the white stuff at the highest elevations. This may put a damper on some objectives, but its for the greater good as we need it, and my farmers tan could use a break!
Have a good weekend
ACMG Mountain Guide