Alpine climbing season has cooled from last week...for the better.
Wet and cooler temperatures have been the pattern of the week and leading through the coming weekend. Far more typical conditions to be expected for this time of year. Generally, the system has been broken with periods of sun or strong precip. A dusting of new snow to 1900m has in most places melted but might still be found in some deep, dark, high places.
With the recent cooler temperatures, we have seen the snowpack firm up nicely. Generally speaking, travel has improved but also the need for crampons and slide for life conditions has also increased. Early starts would be needed to find good firm travel with crampons needed in most places.
Valley trails are clearing up nicely with common hiking/running trail snow free (enough) to get into the alpine. Routes like the lions, watersprite, wedgemont lake, lake lovely water are now seeing traffic.
With snow travel really being the name of the game, this time of year conditions have improved since last week and classic routes are starting to see some traffic.
Tantalus Range: Reports of Alpha East ridge, Dione and Serratus being climbed in good conditions.
Tricouni/Cypress: Have been climbed via the south face routes. The classic north ridge would likely still be a week out.
Duffey Lake Area: No available reports for this year, except some ski ascent of the big peaks (matier, slalok) with good corn snow conditions. Id suspect still a ways out for reasonable summer mountaineering conditions.
Garibaldi: Seen from across the valley the standard glacier route of Garibaldi looks in good condition and the bergschrund is still well intact.
Blackcomb Area: Blackcomb buttress is snow free, with the descent options of DOA and Body bag full of snow for quick travel. DOA recently was climbed and reported firm snow (crampons) and good use of pickets.
Wedge: Saw a few ascents recently and would expect excellent conditions coming up with easy glacier travel. Report from June 3 https://www.mountainconditions.com/reports/wedge-mountain-ne-ridge
Yak Peak: From the highway the route looks dry and snow free enough to climb!
Minimal change from the last conditions summary! The biggest hazard being the winter snow transforming in the mountains. Continue to be prudent of what is overhead: Cornices, Snowmelt generated rock fall. What’s under for you feet: cornices, bergschrunds and avalanche risk. With the transforming snow bergschrund are starting to open and winter snow bridges are weakening creating a heighted risk of a crevasse fall.
Generally speaking, good conditions particular with early starts and a thoughtful approach to finding good snow travel.