ACMG MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS SUMMARY FOR THE COAST MOUNTAINS ISSUED JULY 27, 2017

Amazing what a couple of weeks of warm weather can do! Approaches are all pretty much snow-free now, and while glaciers still have healthy coverage, it is getting thinner by the day, with the firn line (the boundary between between last winters snow and the lower-elevation exposed ice) getting higher and higher. Overall, in the South and the North Coast regions, glaciers and crevassed areas are still well bridged, and moats/bergschrunds are still passable, though starting to open up. Expect to see increasing amounts of exposed ice at the lower zones of all glaciers, and getting higher in the southern regions. This is the time of year to start watching out for the emedded rocks in the glacier ice to start melting out. Underneath the appropriately named Stonecrop Glacier above Upper Joffre Lake is a perfect zone to watch these flying rocks that have melted out of the face!

The outlook for the South Coast is clear and hot for the next week, with freezing levels above 4,000m. Clear skies should continue to produce firm snow conditions in the mornings, making for easy travel, but still watch out for melting as soon as the sun is up, and remember that rockfall potential is always higher with warm temps. With freezing levels this high, expect soft snow on all steeper aspects, even up high. In the northern regions of the Coast, the weather outlook is not as good, with rain, cool temps and cloud cover dominating the forecast.

All the regular alpine routes and objectives are reported in good shape, with standard concerns about rockfall and loose snow. As noted, moats are also starting to open up, and will continue to do so. Last week in the Cascades a climbing party from BC had a dramatic snow collapse on a well travelled route up a snow gulley/couloir. Good rope management and safe practices helped them avoid injury, but a good reminder that even on well travelled and popular moderate routes it is always best to expect anything, and not to let your guard down.

Climbers on Slesse this past week have noted that the pocket Glacier on the NE Buttress route is mainly gone, but there are still some lingering chunks of snow threatening the approach and lower access.

I have attached a few pics from the roadside this evening, July 27, between Whistler and Squamish, to give an idea of current snow conditions. Get out and continue to enjoy this amazing weather while we have it!