ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Coast Mountains issued August 24th 2017

In general the current conditions for alpine climbing in the southern part of the Coast Range are awesome. It has been warm and sunny for what feels like forever, with only minor disturbances the past couple of weeks that haven’t affected conditions and expected to continue into next week. Further north towards Alaska a low pressure system is expected to bring rain and possibly snow up high this weekend.

All alpine rock routes I can think of are currently dry. There may be some precipitation today in the southern parts of the range, but this should dry up by the weekend.

Glaciers are still mostly covered with a well consolidated snowpack, and shallow enough boot penetration that gaiters are not normally required. There have been good freezes most nights lately requiring crampons in the morning.

As the snowpack continues to melt away from areas with loose rock, the rockfall hazard is increasing. More crevasses and moats are to opening up, making it more difficult to access some routes, although it’s still good for this time of year.

Make sure you get after it while the conditions last!