ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Coast Mountains issued August 24th 2017

In general the current conditions for alpine climbing in the southern part of the Coast Range are awesome. It has been warm and sunny for what feels like forever, with only minor disturbances the past couple of weeks that haven’t affected conditions and expected to continue into next week. Further north towards Alaska a low pressure system is expected to bring rain and possibly snow up high this weekend.

All alpine rock routes I can think of are currently dry. There may be some precipitation today in the southern parts of the range, but this should dry up by the weekend.

Glaciers are still mostly covered with a well consolidated snowpack, and shallow enough boot penetration that gaiters are not normally required. There have been good freezes most nights lately requiring crampons in the morning.

As the snowpack continues to melt away from areas with loose rock, the rockfall hazard is increasing. More crevasses and moats are to opening up, making it more difficult to access some routes, although it’s still good for this time of year.

Make sure you get after it while the conditions last!

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.