After a wet and snowy start to July, alpine conditions are starting to improve.
In the Rockies, alpine rock routes are in great shape generally. The high peaks like Victoria and Assiniboine still have lingering snow that may inhibit upward progress but they seem to be just around the corner from high season condition. Solid freezes have been rare this summer but as the snowpack thins out further we can be hopeful for this to occur more frequently.
The Columbia Mountains are also coming around. Reports from Rogers Pass say that rock routes are dry and high alpine peaks over 3000m typically have undesirable soft mushy snow after 10am. Specifically, there are some snow patches lingering on the Mt. Sir Donald West Face Bypass descent. The Bugaboos, which have seen a lot of climber traffic lately appear to be in typical mid summer condition. The Bugaboo Snowpatch col is still snow covered with the bergscrhund being closed. Good step kicking up to the col has also been reported.
Overall, things are shaping up for high season conditions. Be on the lookout for the usual hazards like rockfall, crevasses and loose wet avalanches this long weekend. Early starts and appropriate route selection, as always, are encouraged to manage these risks.