ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 8, 2016
Well, If nothing else, this summer has been consistent in that most weekends have been difficult to plan from a weather standpoint! And... this weekend appears to be following that trend.
From Revelstoke to Golden to Jasper and Canmore, the forecast seems to have either Saturday or Sunday showing a significant chance of rain. With regards to mountain conditions, the recent snow will be the greatest factor for decision making.
In the interior and closer to the divide in the Rockies, there has been steady on and off snowfall accumulating since last Friday. Amount are variable but you can expect deep trail-breaking above 2500m. Crevasses will be harder to see with the new snow bridges and it would be good to be thinking about the possibility of avalanches, both loose and small slabs, if climbing steeper snow and ice features. It doesn't take a big avalanche to fill a bergschrund...
Freezing levels are forecast to be below 3000m throughout the weekend with Sunday dipping below 2000m in some places. I think it's safe to say that the bigger alpine rock climbs will be out of shape for a while!
It might be a good weekend to dodge rain showers on lower elevation crags and even possibly some of those south facing cliffs you've been avoiding all summer. Scrambles and rock climbs in the dryer ranges might also be good if the forecast stabilizes.
All the Best,
Marc Piché
ACMG Mountain Guide