Climbing Conditions

1 photos

Ice Conditions

Rockies - Mount Murchison

Climbing Conditions

MCR Subscribers,

Maarten van Haeren and I climbed Virtual Reality yesterday adjacent to Murchison Falls.

Virtual Reality had a bit of water flowing over the initial 30m. Above, the route is dry. We climbed the route in 2 pitches. Protection was adequate and generally available. The final curtain was hollow and will likely deteriorate during future chinooks.

Murchison is still forming. The left side sounded like a shower all day. There is still evidence of plenty collapsing ice features as the route continues to grow. The final pitch looks quite challenging at present and would likely feel quite hard for a WI4 climber.

But My Daddy’s a Psycho did not have sufficient ice to climb or protect. It would climb as a mixed line in current conditions.

There is very little snow in the boulder field at the base of the routes, just enough to hide the holes between the boulders and make travel interesting.

Brent Peters
Mountain Guide
PeakStratagem.com
(403)688-6907

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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.