I guided a traverse of the Yellow Band on Mt Robson from the northwest to the southeast; Friday, September 15th, to Sunday September 17th. My guest was a very competent and fit mountaineer. We forded the Robson River several hundred metres downstream from the Mist Glacier, and Lake, moraine. The water was never deeper than knee.

We gained the Yellow Band via a prominent left slanting break below the Emperor Ridge and not as indicated in Selected Alpine Climbs. Verglas presented some challenges. Above said break we traversed south to merge with the line indicated in Selected Alpine Climbs. Our first night was spent in an established bivy at 2463 metres atop a prominent buttress (GR 539876). Our water was sourced with both free flowing and newborn water ice.

Saturday we traversed the Yellow Band to the Forster Hut between the 2400 - 2600 metre level. We found some frozen ground on northerly aspects, but the traverse was by in large dry and frost free. Good views of the Schwartz, aka "Black" Ledges revealed that they are holding snow and new water ice. We opted not to attempt an ascent, we were also pretty beat when we got to the hut.

Sunday we descended to Kinney Lake and saw a party of three, on high, traversing from the top of the Kain Face towards The Roof.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
www.yamnuska.com