Climbing Conditions

4 photos

Rising Firn Line

BC Selkirks Hermit Meadows

Climbing Conditions

I spent the past 6 days camping at Hermit Meadows. During this time, our team climbed Mt Rogers via the S Ridge Integrale, Swiss Peaks via the S Face Mt Rogers, Truda Peaks via the S Ridge and Mt Tupper via the W Ridge.

Firn line on the Swiss Glacier is around 2600' and rising daily. The S Face of Mt Rogers has an ice patch that is also growing rapidly. On our second day we ascended in old tracks. Mid slope, the steps were mostly supportive but snow depth was less than 20cm. Two days later we had to traverse well out under Grant Peak to avoid the ice. Truda couloir has about another week until the upper 100m will also be ice. When descending yesterday snow depth in the upper couloir was less than 30cm.

Overall travel conditions this week were excellent. The snow in the glaciers is relatively firm. Bridges are softening however as they melt and we had a couple of legs go through. We also heard of another group losing one of their party in the moat of the Swiss Glacier. He was ok; unhurt and surprised after he climbed out. They had just roped up.

It would seem like travel around Hermit Meadows is about to get more challenging as the snow continues to melt in this heat. We were happy to be carrying crampons and ice axes during our days.

Brent Peters
Mountain Guide
PeakStratagem.com
Info@PeakStratagem.com

Photos of Swiss Peaks, summit ridge Mt Rogers, and looking back from the Swiss Ridge towards Mt Rogers.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.