Summary provided by Brian Jones:
Summer has kicked in finally and it looks like great weather for a while longer. Trails to treeline in most areas are snow free, but expect deeper than usual snowpack at and above treeline.
Standard routes in the Joffre group, on Garibaldi and in the Tantalus Range have seen regular traffic and all reports indicate generally good conditions with firm snow in the alpine, dry rock and substantial glacier coverage at most elevations. There is still snow lingering on higher north aspects, so south facing rock routes are still likely a better choice.
Great weather though, can lead to rapid changes in mountain conditions. Continuing the theme from last week, the main story this coming week will be watching snow conditions at all elevations. The high temperatures mean we are losing significant snow depth (and strength) every day - this affects everything from approach trails to rockfall, crevasse coverage and creek crossings.
Keep in mind that routes that were safe last week, may not be any more. Routes that are reasonable on a morning ascent, may deteriorate rapidly by your afternoon descent. Watch for cornice failures; weakening and collapsing snow bridges; solar-triggered surface avalanches, and possible deep slabs in bigger terrain. Pay attention to creeks under snowfields, and watch for rockfall as snow melts off the alpine faces. Conditions will change rapidly this week.
Please check the Squamish Access Society’s website for Falcon closures before making rock climbing plans:
http://squamishaccess.ca/2017-falcon-closure/
Calculus Crack and Rock On are amongst the popular classics currently closed.
Reports from some treeline zones are that the bugs are out in force as well, guess we're not the only ones liking the sun!
Get out and enjoy, timing is everything!
Brian Jones
ACMG Mountain Guide