Climbing Conditions

5 photos

Good Travel Conditions on the Wapta

Wapta Icefields - Bow to Peyto Glacier Trek

Climbing Conditions

We did the "Little Wapta Traverse" Bow Lake to Peyto Lake with overnights at Bow and Peyto Hut this Monday through Wednesday.

Glaciers are largely snow-free on their lower halfs except Peyto Glacier is bare ice almost to the saddle below Mt. Thompson. Despite warm nights and some rain on Tuesday, the snow covered glacier sections were firm and travelled pretty well even though it was very sun-cupped.

The descent from Peyto Glacier off the ledge descender's left still has a snow-plug that is overhanging on the top end and thin in places, which comes with hazard of collapsing / falling through while descending. We opted to lower / rappel off the bolt anchors looker's left of the snow plug which comes with some rock fall hazard, even though we tried to clean it off from loose rock. A helmet and a 60m rope is definitely recommended if you opt for the rappell. I suspect another warm week may be enough to melt the remaining snow and then the spot can be quite easily descended along a little creek.

Cauldron Creek could be crossed relatively easily (boots on!) and for Peyto Creek we opted to walk all the way to its delta close to the Peyto Lake. A good soul has put some work into the trail on the moraine and side-hilling section above Peyto Creek including a bolted hand-line close to the narrows.Thank you!

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.