Guided Rob, a friendly Welshman, over the solstice. Found easy travel and almost completely supportive steps up to the bergschrund at 7 am. We followed a tongue of impressive debris from a previous schrund collapse which had scoured a tongue below the face and deposited large blocks. The initial plan to pass the schrund on the right was thwarted by a slightly overhanging lip while the main passage on the right has collapsed. The left side of the face is threatened by a remaining cornice, so we climbed easily through the center to gain the left side of the lowest rock.
We were told that 9 people bailed on the face on Saturday due to warm temps early in the morning. We were back over the schrund on a rock deadman by 8:30, and weren't concerned by conditions. In our experience conditions have settled since the viral video of a large slab on the right side of the face a week ago.
Lovely to look down on busy Cleveland Avenue on solstice, a great way to pass a Monday morning.
Thanks to Brent Nixon of Vancouver Mountain Guides for the hookup and the beta.
On The Map
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.