We just got back from a few days climbing in the Tantalus Range with Black Sheep Adventure Sports.

The North Face of Serratus Mountain has increasingly more rock bands exposed as the glacier continues to melt. For us this meant more pitches of low 5th class climbing than there were a few years ago, making for a longer day. The last rappel down the West Face over the moat was a rope stretcher, it might not be possible with a 60m rope (or if you have a short 60) in another week when more snow melts.

Most glaciers had 50-80% snow coverage, meaning lots of zig zagging to try and find a route without stepping on suspicious snow plugs. Moats are huge in many places, often too big to step across.

The regular route on Dione via Le Petit Couloir is in good shape, with more ice than usual for this time of year (I wasn’t there the last year or 2). The glacier still appeared to be snow covered accessing Dehydrated on Dalwhinnie and the SW Buttress of Dione, but we didn't get a close look.

We saw a group come by on the Tantalus Traverse, but we didn’t manage to speak to them.

Photos attached.

Enjoy the high pressure!

Alex Geary, Mountain Guide
James Klemmensen, Apprentice Alpine Guide