Climbing Conditions

10 photos

Climbing Conditions

We climbed Mt Robson (August 1st & 2nd 2024)

Trail is 100% dry to the RR col. Water available at the col (small tarn).
Bivy spot #1 closer to Resplendent still has snow but can easily fit 3 or 4 bivy bags (or 2 tents).

Most of the traverse of the Towers can be done on rock with possibility to shortcut on solid snow.

The bypass on the right side of the 3rd tower still has enough snow to be used but we found it easier to climb the chimney and follow the ridge to the top of the Patterson Couloir. From there solid exposed ice can be used to rappel the bergschrund. We used 2x70m ropes but it can definitely be done with only one 70m.

Glacier travel was good on hard and supportive snow. We probed 235+cm all the way to the Kain Face but we found a 70cm/100cm snow bridge (1 to 2 meters wide). It was solid enough for us to cross but probably not for long.

Kain Face Bergschrund was easily climbable on its right side.
The first 70 meters of the face still holds 80cm of snow. (Shovel handy to dig a good v-thread on the way down).

Then pitch 2 only had 2 feet of snow.
Above that we found only alpine ice (variable quality) except for the last 70m that has snow.

No cornice at the top of the Kain Face so we went up and slightly left for the first pitch then straight up to the top.

The traverse to reach the base of the southeast ridge has some cornices easily avoidable. Steeper terrain though.

The southeast ridge was is perfect shape for us allowing a direct climb on its right side from base to top. No detour required around gargoyles.

The final ridge has minimal cornices and easy to travel except for one very narrow section with a small cornice on the left and very steep terrain on the right side.

On the way back we down climbed the first 70m of the Kain Face to find some ice then 4 to 5 rappels to the base. Bergschrund was easy to rappel but some digging is needed to reach good ice above it.

A lot of debris at the base of the Kain Face but we didn't see any sign of instability except a small slide on the very left side of the face (around 12pm).

On the way back glacier travel was still good (penetration on the glacier was only ankle deep).

We climbed back to the towers on the left side of the bergschrund where it was only 2 feet wide and could easily be climbed with a high step using ice tools.

We rappelled the 3rd tower and downclimbed the rest. No sign of rockfall on the traverse.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.