Enjoyed stable weather and good climbing conditions on a recent trip to Neil Colgan July 2-3.
Marginal overnight freeze on the evening of the 2nd but clear skies made for excellent travel conditions on the approach to Fays west ridge route. Three 50m pitches of front pointing on bullet hard alpine ice on the face. I was happy to have 3/4 shank boots and sturdy steel crampons. A party attempting the face with aluminum crampons did not make it very far. Schrund crossing was simple. Ridge to the summit was snow free.

Other obs:
-N Face Couloir looked good
-Centre ice bulge direct looked ok
-N Face/west couloir route is a thin grey streak of ice and did not look appealing
*expect rock fall in these areas with rising daytime temperatures as the glacial ice recedes and exposes loose rock.
-the fixed rope in the short gully low on the Perren Route has been damaged in several spots and needs to be replaced.

Hut obs:
-The hut is in good shape. Don’t forget to bring your own TP
-the new ACC online booking system is great, but you have to call guest services to make a reservation of a hut within 7 days.
-to access Moraine Lake, show a copy of your Neil Colgan reservation to the Parks Moraine Lake shuttle service. You can pay at the kiosk and they have open seats on most buses, even when they are sold out.