Athabasca N-Face Bypass Conditions - Pictures of Mt. Alberta, Diadem, and Confederation
Mt. Athabasca, Mt. Diadem, Mt. Alberta, Mt. Confederation
Jasper Visitor Safety climbed Mt. Athabasca via the North Face Bypass route and descended the AA Col on May 30th 2023. The North Glacier was snow covered. We started early had a decent overnight freeze resulting in a melt-freeze crust that was supportive about 70% of the time. We used a rope for the glacier travel. The bergschrund below the Silverhorn was easily passed, likewise on the North Face. The climbing conditions on the North Face were good with a couple of centimeters of firm snow over ice. We mostly used ice screws for protection and anchors, but we also placed a couple of pickets.
The decent down the AA-Col was mostly on rock until just above the glacier. Luckily we were able to travel on a previous stamped in trail through the otherwise unsupportive slush on the glacier in the afternoon.
Attached are pictures of the AA-Col. Also attached from June 1st are pictures of the north face of Mt. Alberta, Mt. Diadem and Mt. Confederation.