ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains. Sept 2, 2022

No major changes over the past week in the mountains. The hot sunny weather continues through the weekend and into the begining of next week with some possible cooling and precipitation forecasted to start mid-week. The biggest hazard continues to be rockfall from melting snow and ice in steep terrain.

The snow line continues to creep upwards with the hot weather and last weeks snow up high in the Rockies has melted off. More crevasses are being exposed and bergschrunds continue to open up with the melt. Fortunately the big winter snowpack and cool spring means that there is still reasonable travel on snow in many places, though this can vary widely from one place to the next. Recent photos of the Columbia Icefields for example show mostly bare ice faces with lots of potential for rockfall as the days heat up, while the Bugaboos are still reporting decent snow coverage for accessing most of the climbs. The longer nights are allowing for a better overnight re-freeze where there is snow, and some good morning travel on crampons. Alpine rock routes remain dry and in good shape on all aspects.

September nights can be cool and feel long if you are stuck out, so pack a charged headlamp and an extra layer and enjoy the late summer climbing!

Conrad Janzen
ACMG Mountain Guide