We climbed Cascade Kronenbourg and Carlsberg Column in Field today as a consolation prize to the new and evidently popular Nasty Habits. It was a busy day on the Beer climbs with multiple parties in the Twisted area as well as the climbs on Mount Dennis.
We were trying to avoid direct exposure to higher alpine terrain features and were more willing to expose ourselves to lower elevation slopes where the snow has re-frozen after last week's warm temperatures.
Cascade Kronenbourg has seen a lot of traffic and there is little actual swinging required. Good protection is a bit sparse in the lower section due to the number of old screw holes and the aerated nature of the ice but it improves significantly on the second half. There are currently several good rests on this lead.
Carlsberg Column has also been climbed a lot. The right side can be climbed almost entirely on positive hooks with lots of opportunities for solid screws. The left side is wet and would require a lot more swinging and has a bit of a 'fresher' ice climbing feel.
As far as the crowds go... It seemed to work out well today as long as you weren't too set on one objective in particular and were willing to communicate with other parties. Interestingly, as we drove away at 2pm, there was almost no one climbing any more with four hours of sunlight left! Maybe the afternoon shift would be fine if you are climbing fast and it doesn't get too warm.
Marc Piché and Lilla Molnar