Regional Summary For Interior and Rocky Mountains Aug 12, 2021

Over all the Alpine is dryer and warmer then the average summer. What this means is there is more bare ice on the glaciers and there are more rockfall events occurring.

WEATHER

This summer has been dry and hot. This trend will continue through the weekend but there is some precipitation in the forecast for early next week in the Interior and Rocky Mountains. Models are showing up to 12 mm of rain in the Interior and 6 mm in the Rockies starting on Monday, with temps dropping we may see some snow at high elevations, although it will likely not last.

CONDITIONS

Glaciers are dry with lots of bare ice and Bergshrunds are open and becoming more challenging to navigate. Snow bridges are likely weak and I would use extra caution.

Natural and Human triggered Rockfall events are occurring at an increased rate. In the Bugaboos the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col in melted to ice and has been for awhile (pictures of recommended alternative route are attached)

Reports from last week in the Bugaboos were cold and windy with a little dusting of snow up high (this melted quickly). Lots of rock fall.

Moraines that are sitting on glaciers are loose and shedding rock they have been the cause of a few accidents and near misses.

The prolonged warm weather has dried out the mountains significantly making human triggered rockfall more likely. The mud that often holds some the mountains together like mortar has dried out and become brittle. This has played a role in at least one accident this summer in Rogers Pass.

Alpine rock faces are dry and are seeing lots of traffic.

HAZARDS

As already mentioned Rockfall is the hazard at the top of my list. With the forecast precipitation for next week I suspect there will be an increase in nature activity.

Serac fall is likely in the heat and should be avoided.

The Interior and Rocky Mountains continue to be smoky, this is making it challenging to see approaching weather. It may also make a rescue more challenging if it is needed. There is also the health affects of the smoky air to deal with.

The fire hazard is also high or extreme in many areas in BC and Alberta. Extra caution when traveling and camping is required.

OBJECTIVES

In the Interior and Rockies I would be heading for:
-Alpine rock routes.
-Multi-pitch rock climbing.
-Sport climbing.
-Low angle glacial mountaineering with caution to overhead hazard, rocks will bounce a long way on dry ice.

I would be avoiding:
-Ice faces.
-Areas of extreme fore hazard.
-Heavy smoke.
-Gullies.
-Snow slopes (if there are any left).

There are lots of reasonable objectives out there in the mountains that are in good shape. You should continue to be aware of how the "hot summer" is affecting the hazards and use this to choose your adventures.

Jeff Mitchell
Mountain Guide

edit: It turns out that the attached photos were cropped. They can be found on the Friends of Bugaboos Face Book page if needed.