Hello, I guided an attempt of Mt. Robson between Aug. 7-10 with the 9th being our summit day.

We approached from the south via the Patterson Spur, which is in dry conditions (expected). On the 8th we made it the rest of the way up to the RR col, where we set up camp, and then continued on to scout route in preparation for the summit day. This recon was advantageous because the open schrunds below the approach ridge and below the Kain Face are quite open now and could be tricky navigating in the dark with an early morning alpine start. Attached is a pic of the Kain Face and shows where we crossed the schrund on the far RHS. Also attached is a pic of Mt. Resplendent.

We pitched out the Kain face in 7 50-60m traversing pitches which had P1 being snow/ice runnels, P2-5 being a mix of soft/rotten ice which req’d 1-3 swings to get good ice tool placements, and then P6-7 being mostly snow with a bit of ice to start. The upper SE ridge was lacking snow which req’d more pitching out than would be req’d if conditions were snowier. We made it to roughly 3675m before turning around due to timing.

Anyone heading up there should be prepared to do a bunch of ice climbing up the Kain Face, which means bringing more screws and real ice climbing gear. Also, don't forget your gore-tex because even though the forecast may be spitter, the upper mountain has a weather mind of its own. We were glad we had our on when the weather decided to rain on us while descending the Kain Face. Fun times! ;) All in all it was a great trip with a great guest!

Enjoy the rest of your summer!

Patrick Lindsay
Ridgeline Guiding Services